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Nusara

Bangkok

Family-influenced Thai cuisine in homage to top chef’s ancestry

On the Pass

Thitid Tassanakajohn

In a nutshell: Hot on the heels of its high-flying sibling Le Du, Nusara has also proved hugely popular since opening in 2020. It serves traditional Thai cuisine with a twist, reflecting a modern update on the chef’s family recipes and culinary traditions.

On the menu: Nusara’s 12-course tasting runs through intricate snacks such as mackerel with coconut and cucumber, Hokkaido scallop with sweetcorn and cured egg yolk, and tom kla soup, plus a signature crab curry, presented on a crispy betel leaf with horseshoe crab roe. Then there are larger family-style courses including Bumbai Neua, a tender beef cheek in a rich, Bombay-style curry with pickled cucumber. Each dish is as colourful as the stunning crockery it is served on.

Fusion cuisine: While many of Nusara’s recipes originate from the royal kitchens of King Rama V, who ruled Thailand until the early 1900s, they also contain many typical Indian spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon and cardamom, reflecting the diverse mix of influences that has contributed to Thai cuisine.

A family affair: Chef Ton runs Nusara with his brother, Tam, a sommelier and maître d’. The siblings founded the restaurant in memory of their grandmother, who cooked for them and inspired their love of Thai cuisine.

The vibe: A 10-seat dining room overlooking the Wat Pho temple complex, Nusara provides an intimate setting where modernity meets the glamour of a bygone Old Town era. Below the restaurant is the Mayrai Pad Thai and Wine Bar, also run by the Tassanakajohn brothers.

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