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Nusara

Bangkok

Thai cuisine balancing family traditions and modern techniques

On the Pass

Thitid Tassanakajohn (pictured) and Lenk Nithit

What’s the story? The latest venture from entrepreneurial chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn sees the man behind Asia’s 50 Best stalwart Le Du return to his roots with a more traditional menu of authentic Thai dishes. Named after Ton’s grandmother, who passed away in 2020, Nusara is a tribute to the chef’s culinary inspiration.

The dining room: Sat above Ton’s Mayrai Pad Thai and Wine Bar, and overlooking the Wat Pho temple complex, the atmospheric dining room seats just 10 guests in an intimate setting that blends the glamour of a bygone Old Town era with a splash of modernity.

What to expect: Nusara allows Ton to air family recipes not as suited to the more modern identity of Le Du, albeit with refined techniques and elegant presentation still firmly in place. A 12-course tasting menu starts with small, creative dishes – such as a spicy salad of finely sliced squid and a wok-fried wagyu beef with basil. The signature serve is the crab curry, presented on a crispy betel leaf and topped with horseshoe crab roe.

Meet the chef: Ton trained at New York’s Culinary Institute of America before earning his chops at some of the city’s most respected restaurants, including former World’s 50 Best champion Eleven Madison Park, as well as The Modern and Jean-Georges. His passion for wine also saw him conferred as a certified sommelier by the Court of Master Sommeliers.

Other ventures: A growing empire of Bangkok establishments includes Le Du and chic wine bar Mayrai Pad Thai, as well as the more laidback Baan, where he serves affordable, crowd-pleasing, homestyle favourites.

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